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1. Prepare your soil

Dig up the dirt before you plant. This will loosen the ground, break up old plant roots and aerate the soil. It also gives you a chance to inspect your soil.

The dirt should not be too fine: if it feels more like dust than soil, you should add some organic matter. If it feels solid or clay-like, then break it up with a combination of sand and vermiculite/perilite. Generally, you should add a little organic matter every year.

2. Plan your plants

Work out where you want to have tall plants, where you want them to trail, and where you need groundcover. If you really want a color scheme, then decide on that first, too... But consider picking plants because you like them, rather than because they fit your color scheme. As a rule of thumb, put the taller plants at the back (or in the center), and the trailing plants at the edge.

3. Get planting

Lay out your plants - still in pots - where you think you want them. Step back, and make sure you are happy with how it looks.

When you are satisfied, take the plants out of their pots, and lay them as you designed. Starting with the center plant, part the soil with one hand and push the plant roots into the gap with your other hand. There should be little to no pressure put on the roots using this "part-then-plant" technique. Continue planting until your garden is full and colorful.

4. Root Enhancement

Water your new plants in thoroughly with water mixed with a rooting hormone. A product like Root Booster contains both a rooting hormone and fertiliser. The rooting hormone helps prevent transplant shock and pushes the growth of new roots. The fertilizer provides strength and nutrition to the whole plant, but concentrates on the root development. 

5. Maintain

Fertilize your plants with Natures Source plant food www.naturessourceplantfood.com  Do so at least once a week, Try to keep your watering to evening time, when the heat of the afternoon sun has subsided.

Some plants need to be pruned through the summer, and some should have old blooms removed when they have flowered, to let them bloom again. Read the tags provided with the plants to see if you need to.

1. Dig a Hole

  • The hole should be twice as wide and twice as deep as the pot the tree comes in.

2. Prepare the Hole

  • If you hit clay or soil with poor drainage, put sand in the bottom of the hole.
Read more ...

Poinsettia"Are Poinsettias poisonous?"

This is one of the most-asked questions about these largely misunderstood plants. Research has shown that poinsettias are not poisonous. In fact, the Aztecs used the sap to treat fevers and the bracts for die. It seems that back in 1919 an Army officer's two-year old son was claimed to have died after eating a poinsettia leaf. Later determined as hearsay, the rumour has continued to spread and is still believed by many.

The plant has been researched and thoroughly tested. There is no evidence to suggest the plant is deadly and has not been found to have any adverse effect when eaten, except for the occasional case of vomiting. We're certainly not suggesting you try a Poinsettia Salad, but don't feel the need to surround the plant with electrified fencing to keep the kids away.

"How do you make Poinsettias bloom?"

A common misconception is that the red leaves are the poinsettia's flower. They're not, but rather bracts that surround the flower. The bloom itself is a particularly unspectacular circle of tiny white dots around the base of the bracts. If they have bloomed - that is, they are open - then they are toward the end of their cycle.

To make the bracts turn red you need to be controlling the plant's light from early October. Give the plant 12-14 hours of complete darkness each day, e.g. from 5pm until 8am. Night temperatures should be slightly cooler than during the day, but no lower than 55f.

"Is Poinsettia the real name?"

No, the real name is Euphorbia Pulcherrima, which means "very beautiful". The name was given by a German botanist, Wilenow, because he was dazzled by its colour when he found it growing in a crack in his greenhouse. (Yes, at one time these remarkable plants were weeds!)

Caring for Poinsettias

The first and possibly most important care you give your new plant should start before you leave the shop. Make sure your plant is paper-wrapped and that your car is warm. If your plant is exposed to low temperatures for even a short time, you'll have a sorry sight waiting for you the following morning.

Unwrap your poinsettia carefully and place it somewhere with lots of light. Don't put it too close to a window because in Edmonton it gets very cold there! Also, be careful not to put it somewhere with a draft, whether it's warm or cool. (So avoid putting it near air vents or the entrance.)

Keep the room in the region of 18c to 20F in the day, and around 15c at night. High temperatures will shorten the life of the poinsettia. Keep the room fairly humid. You don't need water dripping from the ceiling, but if you wake up with a dry throat then you might want to look at ways to humidify your home.

Check the soil every day. Water when the soil is dry, but don't over water. Make sure there are holes in the pot, and a saucer for excess waer to drain into. Always keep the saucer empty!

If you do decide to keep the poinsettias past Christmas, fertilise with houseplant food and ask us how to care for your Pointsettia in October, in the lead up to next Christmas.

Choosing your Poinsettias

When selecting your plant, consider these points:

  • It's 'green' foliage should be green.
  • The leaves should not be wilted - avoid plants that are drooping or wilted.
  • Don't buy plants displayed in paper sleaves, they tend to deteriorate quickly (source: University of Illinois). However, make sure you take it home in a paper sleave to protect the plant from the cold.
  • Make sure your car is warm when you take the plant away - it is a tropical plant and will die if it's subjected to cold air for even a minute.
  • Check the soil. If it's wet and the plant is wilted, it could be an indication of root rot.
  • The plant should be well-balanced and attractive from all sides.

Above all, enjoy selecting your plant and don't be afraid to try a new variety!

roseplantingThere are a few basic points to note when transplanting a rose into your garden.

  • Plant the rose so that the point at which the stems branch out is at soil level. Generally, this will be deeper than it is in the pot.
  • Leave a slight dip down to the rose. This helps to keep the soil moist on hot summer days. You can also use the dip to put dead tree leaves or straw in when winter draws near, this will give the roots a little extra protection throughout the freeze.
  • Use Root Booster, or something similar, to help the rose establish it's roots quickly.
  • If your soil is not good quality black dirt, then improve your soil before transplanting.
DickClark

Dick Clark2011 AARS Winner

(cv. WEKfunk) PPAF Grandiflora

No two flowers are exactly alike on this changeable chameleon of a rose. Black-red buds spiral open to show off swirls of cream edged & washed with vibrant cherry pink. But that’s not the end of the exhibit on these classically-formed fragrant flowers. When the sun strikes the petals, they begin to blush burgundy, finishing as a deep dark red..

  • Height / Habit: Medium-tall/Broadly rounded & bushy
  • Bloom / Size: Medium-large, double
  • Petal count: 25 to 30
  • Fragrance: Moderate cinnamon spice
2007 Moondance™

2007 Moondance™

Floribunda cv. JACtanic PPAF

‘It’s a marvelous night for a Moondance’...this extraordinary floribunda carries large clusters of beautifully formed blooms that open to a sparkling white, held above glossy green foliage.

  • Height: 1 m ( 3’)
  • Petals: 25
  • Fragrance: Light Raspberry
  • Foliage: Glossy green
Love and peace

2002 Love and Peace

var. Ping / Twomey PPAF Hybrid Tea Rose

This classic tea rose treasured for its long stems, bears 13cm (5") flowers. The sweet fruity scent will add flavour to any garden. Very disease resistant

  • Height 1.5-1.75m (4-5')
  • Petals: 40
  • Fragrance: strong and fruity
  • Foliage: dark glossy green

 

Chemical Weed Killers

Weed and Feed (banned)

Supplied in either granule or liquid form, this type of herbicide attacks broadleaf weeds. Be careful not to use it on areas where your desirable plants are, as they will most likely be affected too. The main benefit of this type of weed-killer is that you are fertilising your lawn at the same time.

Weed Out or Weed-B-Gone

This selective weed-killer attacks only broadleaf plants, so using it on your lawn will not harm the grass, but it will kill most weeds. The herbicide is non-residual, which means it will kill any weeds it touches, but deactivates when it hits the soil. This means you don't usually need to worry about it soaking into the ground and affecting downhill crop. As with most weed-killers, it will take about three weeks to completely kill most weeds. Be aware that it will kill any non-grass plants, not just the weeds, so be careful where you apply it.

Chickweed, Clover and Thistle Killer

Some weeds are especially difficult to kill. This product is designed to attack a more selective number of weeds, including White Clover, Chickweed, Buttercup, Cornspurry, Plantain, Canada Thistle and Stitchwort. Again, it is selective and non-residual (stops working when it hits soil).

Wipe-Out

Wipe-Out is most noted for it's fast-acting effects. While most herbicides kill within three weeks, Wipe-Out does so within seven days. Wipe-Out is non-selective, however, and will attack anything which is green and growing. It is also non-residual, deactivating on contact with soil. Wipe-Out is an excellent product, but but sometimes works too fast to kill particularly deep-rooted weeds (Quack Grass is a good example).

Soil Sterilant (banned)

Soil sterilants are non-selective herbicides which kill anything green and growing, and will not let anything new grow for up to ten years. Due to the environmental dangers of these products, no Albertan Garden Center can supply Soil Sterilants (unless they have stock remaining from before the law was introduced). If you get hold of some, be careful how you use it, and consider any possible run-off into your neighbour's garden, or to nearby trees.

Store Information

The Root Seller
16735 Zaychuk Rd.
Edmonton, AB
P:780-473-2588
Mon - Fri: 9am - 7pm
Sat: 9am - 5pm
Sun: 10am - 5pm
Holidays: 9am - 5pm